We set the alarm super early. Actually, I set it earlier than I planned to set it by mistake, so it went off at 5:30 am instead of 5:50 am. Due to crossing timezones again it is now light at 6 am it is dark by 6 pm, so we are adjusting our day to accommodate. Getting up early and trying to go to bed early.
A reasonable night’s sleep was followed by a rubbish breakfast. While it had the makings of a standard cheap hotel free breakfast, only one plate of the waffle press worked, so while one side was cooked the other side of the waffle was gloopy, the toaster burned the toast and didn’t have an eject button to save it, and the cereal was a multi-coloured offering that only a 5-year-old child would regard as tasty. Oh, and the bread was stale and the butter was crumbly (a first for me), so we couldn’t even have bread and butter.
Today has always been down as one of the less appealing days of the trip. While we have been looking forward to making it to Flagstaff, getting here is a different story. Basically, I-40 was rolled out over Route 66 for almost the whole distance between Winslow to Flagstaff. Where Route 66 does still exist, it is only in small sections that don’t connect to anything, leaving the only option for today a 50-mile cycle on the hard shoulder of the interstate. As mentioned previously, due to the size of the hard shoulder this is relatively safe, but it is noisy, smelly and boring.
We were already at the west end of Winslow, so the cycle to the interstate only took a few minutes. Once on the interstate, it was head down and pedal, with little to see other than the road and wide-open plains on both sides.
As newbies to this cycling lark, this was a new experience for us as we tend to plan a route that has something to see, so it was interesting to find that we both had the same experience. We both fell into a daydream, occasionally waking up to the reality of where we are, only then to slip back into the dream. The morning was cold at 8oC, so much of my daydreaming involved warm socks and a roaring fire, which prompted me at one point to pull over and change my sandals for socks and shoes.
The monotony of the cycle was broken by a single rest area, 17 miles into the slog, which was a good job as we both needed a toilet break. Being on an interstate, with little to no cover, posed a few bladder challenges. Standing with our bikes outside of the restrooms, changing layers and allowing our backs a little time in a straight posture, we ended up talking to a steady stream of fellow restroom pitstop visitors, usually after they had reemerged from the restrooms and moving much slower.
Alta and Cecil were interested in our journey as fellow cyclists, albeit day cyclists on mountain bikes. They had cycled in Germany and were interested in what the UK had to offer cyclists, so I gave them a card with ‘Sustrans’ scribbles on the reverse.
While Sandy and Lee were interested in what we were up to like their friend, Randy, is a cycle loon too. During our conversations, we also learned that the weather is likely to get colder and that Amarillo, a town that we passed through only 2 weeks ago received a dumping of over one foot of snow only a couple of days ago.
Reluctantly we rejoined the noise, smell and boredom that is the I-40, at least it is to us.
There was one service area at almost the midpoint of the next 30 miles, which we took advantage of. By this time the sun was out and the temperature was reading 28oC on my computer. With no brain freezing drinks available we opted for a gallon of cold milk.
By the time we rejoined the interstate for the final 15 miles, our old friend was back. We now had a strong headwind to add a challenge to what had so far been quite an easy fast day.
We took the first Flagstaff exit that we came to, which also happened to be the Route 66 exit. As our heads where hurting from both the noise and the fumes, we would have taken it regardless.
From the desert of Arizona, within 200 metres of leaving the interstate, we found ourselves in a scene that could easily have been Colorado. With only 7 more miles to cycle, even with the wind blowing in our faces, we were able to enjoy a traffic-free cycle through a tree-lined corridor toward our final destination for the night.
Less than a mile from the KOA campground we found a sprawling out of town retail park, including a Safeway’s. The customer service lady allowed us to park our bikes next to her counter, allowing us to shop together rather than the usual half time handover of the shopping basket.
Shopping done and shopping bags hanging off our bikes like toys on a Christmas tree, we continued the final 0.8 of a mile to our bed for the night. We handed over $33, the most expensive campsite to date, in return for a patch of dry dirt, albeit a patch of dirt with a picnic bench, fire pit and barbeque.
After the tent was up we enjoyed a marvellous dinner of bread and beans, the only thing that took our fancy in the whole supermarket, followed by half a cantaloupe melon each with a dollop of yoghurt. Deborah has just put on the laundry and gone off for a shower, while I am typing up today’s rather dull day.
We are at the decision point and as yet we haven’t made it. While we would love to head up to the Grand Canyon tomorrow, adding 150 miles to the Route 66 distance, the weather is a big concern with a severe wind warning announced for tomorrow and overnight temperatures well below freezing for the coming week.
Let’s see what tomorrow brings and take it from there!
Hi guys,
Still following and reading every up day with the up most respect for the both of you.
Trip sounds amazing but full of daily unknowns.
I hope the weather stays in your favour, wind is one thing but snow will definitely slow you down.
Keep going see you at the finishing line.
John