Okay, so in daylight, the Palamar Motel maybe even less luxurious than we thought yesterday night when we first arrived. Would we book it for a Wedding Anniversary get-away? No! Would we book it for a cheap place to stay with a comfy bed and a bedroom that I can store two bikes and dry a tent out in? Possibly!
Retracing Lynn’s guided tour route around downtown Pontiac from last night we were soon back at the Route 66 Museum. I left Deborah with the bikes in the car park next to the Bob Waldmire bus, the bus that Bob, the most famous Route 66 artist, called home. We became aware of it ourselves through Billy Connelly’s Router 66 documentary, resulting in it being added to the ‘must-see’ list.
It seems Lynn had called ahead as we were greeted by Mary, one of the volunteers that run the museum, as if we were long lost, friends.
Mary explained that Mike, another of the other volunteers had a medical appointment, so we may not be able to get a tour of the Bob Waldmite’s famous bus, but she would see what she could do.
One of Route 66’s most beloved characters is Bob Waldmire. Bob was from Illinois, and we are fortunate to have his VW van and also his converted school bus home in Pontiac at the Illinois Route 66 Association Hall of Fame and Museum. It’s a truly unique home, and tells us much about the traveling artist of Route 66. Bob was a self proclaimed hippie, and he pared his lifestyle down to fit in his van and his school bus home. He truly lived his life on the mother road.
Mary told me where we could safely leave our bikes, so I went out to were Deborah was and we wheeled them back around to the main entrance and parked them up in the entrance corridor.
By the time we entered the museum, Mary had called Rose, another of the volunteers, who was now on her way out to give us a tour of Bob’s abode.
Rose appeared within a few minutes, so we went out the back of the museum and into the bus. Standing in the bus, listening to stories of the life of Bob was a start to the day that will take some beating.
Noting we were visiting from Scotland, Rose recalled the Easter Sunday morning that Billy Connelly visited to shoot his Route 66 documentary, her chance to sit on his Harley trike and having breakfast with him and his crew, explaining the Billy used the ‘F’ word a lot… Billy, the Big Yin swearing, never! š
The remainder of the museum was just as fascinating as Bob’s bus, giving a true insight into the history of the Mother Road and a perfect introduction to the journey to follow. Unfortunately, time was not on our side, so after a fascinating hour, we said our goodbyes and hit the road, this time in the direction of Normal. What a truly amazing group of selfless people.
After a quick supermarket stop and a couple of turns, we were back on Route 66, running with little more than a kink in the road for the full 30 miles to the outskirts of our next destination.
The bike computer was reading 29oC, which is apparently unseasonably hot for this time of year, with high humidity to make the cycling just that little more ‘enjoyable’.
There aren’t any listed roadside attractions on this first section of the ride, however, five or so metres to the right of the road that we were sharing with other road users, was the original Route 66. Now mostly in disrepair to the degree that a mountain bike might struggle and often indistinguishable between it and the farm field that it paralleled. That said, there is a movement to turn these disused sections of road into walk and cycle route, resurfacing one half of the road and leaving the original surface of Route 66 visible on the other half. While the road traffic was not heavy, and every road user would give us the entire lane when passing, the opportunity to take the occasional break from the main road was a welcome one.
At the start of each of these dedicated walk and cycle track sections is a picnic table under a shelter that offers a welcome respite from the blistering heat from the sun.
It was under one such shelter, just outside the town of Towanda while downing a gallon of Gatorade and munching on a big bag of Lay’s crisps that we saw our first cyclist of the day coming in the opposite direction.
As the cyclist approached us the introductory welcome of “It must be lunchtime in Scotland” confirmed that this was Larry, our Warmshowers host for the night, cycling out to meet us.
Larry cycles a recumbent with a big windshield, which as recumbents go looked pretty damn cool. I’m not sure I would have much chance of staying upright any longer than I can stand up on a paddleboard (about 3 seconds), but Larry was a pro.
We cycled the 9 miles back to Larry’s condo, chatting about cycling, family, Route 66 history, and pretty much anything and everything. On route, Larry pointed out a couple of things that otherwise we may have cycled passed, the Slot Car Graveyard, although it was off at the other side of the main road, and Dead Man’s Curve.
On arrival in Normal, we took a small detour to visit the Route 66 welcome centre, however, it was unfortunately closed, so we continued on to Larry’s home after a quick peek through the window.
Nestled in yet another community that looked like a film set, at the end of a quiet crescent, we were welcomed into a home introduced to Larry’s lively wife, Twila. After chatting for a while, we had a quick shower, before heading out with Larry and Twila for a magnificent dinner of salad and soup at the local supermarket.
Back at Larry and Twila’s home, we had the pleasure of meeting one of their grandsons’s on his way home back to Chicago, before chatting about travel and politics, and eventually calling it a night and heading to bed before Deborah nodded off on the sofa.
A shorter cycle than the previous two days, at 35 miles, but an enjoyable one, and our first Warmshowers experience as guests, staying in a lovely home with two of most warm and generous people with a true love for life.
It was great meeting such an impressive couple that are bicycling Route 66 from Chicago to Santa Monica. Since Sunday, we’ve crossed paths three times, thus far. The last being yesterday, at Paul Bunyan. Hopefully, we’ll cross paths a few more times during our journey. Have fun and be safe.
A fellow Route 66 Traveler,
Charles Sheffield
Fulshear, Texas
The guy on the red Harley
It was a true pleasure to meet such a true gentleman Charles. We wish you safe travels along the Mother Road and most certainly do hope our paths cross again. Until then, safe travels.
I’ll post the photos later today… ended up playing Picklleball rather than writing my blog last night! š