It seems I was asleep before my head hit the pillow, which last night was a pannier full of our electronics. Deborah, on the other hand, did not have a restful night sleep due to prairie dogs finding our tent interesting and tripping over the guy ropes around the tent all night.
We woke just before dawn, which was about 6:15 am now that we are in the Arizona timezone. We watched the sunrise as we hurriedly packed up camp just in case any Park Ranges didn’t measure a mile based on aching arms and stones in sandals but used some sort of dated imperial measurement instead. The walk back to the bikes felt more like three miles due to the climb back up to the Painted Desert Inn from the desert floor.
The bikes and the belongings we had left behind were still there, which we were both really happy about. Honestly!
We arranged our panniers back to the way they were before our overnight adventure. After a short chat with the only two others that were camping on the desert floor, we headed off to explore the Petrified Forest National Park. The route through the park is about 25 miles, with lookouts and stop-offs along the way, so even if we tried we would not be able to get lost today.
The scenery around us was as beautiful as any that we had experienced today, with colours so vivid they could have been painted, which is I guess why they call it the Painted Desert. Just as we were about to cross the bridge over the I-40 we came across where Route 66 once passed through the park. While the site was nicely remembered with a plaque and an old car, there was no sign of a road, just a line of telegraph poles running through a field of desert vegetation. It also was home to the first Historic Route 66 signpost bearing the state of Arizona, so if nothing else a good opportunity for a photoshoot to add the penultimate state sign to our collection.
At our first scenic stop, Newspaper Rock, we had a brief chat about what we were up to with two weighted bikes with a large group, which we assumed were related, but never thought to ask. They were on a week vacation and on their way back to LA. I asked how long it would take them to get back. A question I regret asking, just slightly, as soon as I asked it. Nine hours was their reply. It will take us two weeks, three if we make a detour to see the Grand Canyon.
We continued on, visiting Agate Bridge and Jasper Forest, although we did miss out the 7 miles round trip of the Blue Mesa.
At Crystal Forest, we bumped into the group again. Either our cycling is getting a little faster or we weren’t paying as much attention to the park as we should. In our defence, I would say it wasn’t the latter as we were finding the park fascinating.
There are two primary categories of ‘things’ to look at in the Petrified Forest. Petroglyphs, left by the ancient people of the area several thousand years ago and petrified trees. We had seen a few of the latter in the Painted Desert, but as we progressed through the park the scale and number of these fascinating results of nature and science became more and more impressive.
After the Crystal Forest we continued through a landscape of colours that would be difficult to better, a landscape of reds, browns, whites and greys, all finished off with a cobalt blue sky.
As we pulled into our last stop in the park, the visitor centre, the group were just coming out of the front door. As we have had a photoshoot with people and groups for far less on this trip, we asked and they obliged. I said we were doing a daily blog and would add the photo to the page, at which point one of the group asked how many followers we had and if we were famous. I confirmed that one of our two daughters doesn’t read it, but at least another three friends do, so not the biggest following, and no, we aren’t famous… thank goodness!
From the park to Holbrook, our bed for the night was quite boring. It seemed as soon as we left the park the scenery went decidedly brown. What we did notice is that the Petrified Forest does not have a monopoly on petrified wood. As we approached Holbrook it was clear that there was a thriving petrified wood industry here, with every other business being something related to the material. In fact, we would have saved ourselves $20 as there were whole fields full of neatly lined petrified wood waiting for a buyer to come along and haul it away for a garden ornament. In fact, there were pieces on sale that dwarfed anything we found in the park itself.
We had decided that the Americas Best Value Inn would be honoured with our presence tonight, however, before that, I had spotted a Safeway in town. As I had not been to a Safeway since my last trip to California with Sun Microsystems back in 2009 I just had to go to check it out and see if they still sold my favourite bread.
We bought enough food to last a week, but would likely be devoured in the next 24 hours, then headed to the motel, passed a few Route 66 attractions that would need to wait until tomorrow for their turn to be in front of my camera. The motel didn’t look anything like I was expecting from the booking.com website, but it was cheap and as long at the rooms were okay it would do for one night.
Unfortunately, the hotel was out of ground floor rooms, so a few journeys up and down the stairs carrying panniers and bikes, just to make sure we got some exercise in for the day, and we were ready to chillax for the night. We have spent the evening eating and watching TV while hoping the distant sound of the road will quieten down as the night progresses and that Ivor and his pals don’t come to town and party tonight.
A great day and sounds like fun. The Safeway not withstanding. Get the Bread?
9 hours to Ca? I doubt it.
Cheese and jalapeno bread… It was my staple diet during my Sun days. Tried and failed to buy it or make it as good since!! 😂
Hi Bob & Deborah,
I passed by that spot heading east on October 22nd and then veered off down 180 as I headed toward El Paso, Texas. I rolled into my garage yesterday afternoon after riding 9,797 miles through 26 states and 3 countries (I hit Mexico on the way home).
I had hoped to cross paths one last time on my way home. But, since that didn’t happen, there are a couple of things. Please be very careful when going over the mountain into Oatman, AZ. It has a lot of very sharp turns, with shear dropoffs. I did it late in the day (about 5:30 PM), being worn down and having the sun in my eyes at each round of the mountain. Not, a pleasant way to do it. I’d recommend going over before 2 or 3 PM while the sun is still high and you are still fresh. The west side down is a breeze. But, the eastern trail in was a bitch.
I would also like to treat you two to a stay at the WigWam Motel. So, you may add staying in a teepee to your list of Americana accomplishments. Since, you have already passed the one in Holbrook, there only remains the one in San Bernardino, CA. If you would like to stay there, please call or text me (281-732-2600) the date you would like to stay and I will make a prepaid reservation for you. See info below.
http://www.wigwammotel.com
WIGWAM MOTEL
Since 1949
(909) 875-3005
Motel Driving Address:
2728 E. Foothill Blvd. San Bernardino, CA 92410
Also, I hope you are planning on going up to the Grand Canyon. It is well worth the detour. If you do go, I highly recommend doing the helicopter ride over the canyon. Just pop into the airport that you will pass along the way as you near the canyon.
Charles Sheffield
The Harley riding Texan
Great to hear from you Charles.
Congratulations on completing your epic journey. I’m sure you have quite a few lasting memories from all that traveling, but I am also sure you will be glad to be home.
Thanks for the advice on Oatman. It does look a little scary on the map and I can imagine what the squiggles on the map translate to on the ground.
Many many thanks for the offer on the Wigwam hotel. I’ll give you a call when we get ourselves sorted out. The cycle route doesn’t follow Route 66 in LA due to the volume of traffic on the road, so not sure how close to San Bernardino we will be, but will take a look and get back to you. Such a kind offer which is very much appreciated.
We will be in Flagstaff tomorrow night, so Deborah has until then to decide whether she is up for the Grand Canyon. We have been befiire many years ago with our daughters, but it’s not a place that one tires of easily. We are almost certainly cycling PCH1 from LA to San Francisco, so it’s all a question of daily mileage and number of rest days, but hopefully we will make the journey. Just another 130 miles (3 days) over cycling directly from Falstaff to Williams, plus the 500 from LA to San Francisco will still only get our mileage up to a little over 3000.
Anyway, great to hear from you, glad to know you are home safe and well, and I will be in touch shortly (need to top up my AT&T pay as you go account).
Until then enjoy being at home.
Kind regards
Bob and Deborah
The two clueless nutters from Scotland on push bikes!
Put me down for a follower i check your progress daily & enjoy reading your stories
You are doing great, love reading your blogs every day.
Thanks for checking in on us… We try not to do anything too stupid each day. Sitting at the moment trying to figure out where we can sleep tomorrow night. Never a dull moment.